VALENTINE GAUTHIER

I grew up on the Castellet plateau, next to the Paul Ricard circuit. My father was a test driver and a Formula 1 developer during the great era of motor racing between James Hunt, Niki Lauda, Alain Prost or Ayrton Senna. My mother worked for the English flying school, Winfield. It was the golden age of motorsport, one of my many sources of inspiration. After studying geo-ethnology, I trained in model design at a Parisian fashion school, the Chardon Savard workshop. At the same time, I worked at Martin Margiela. Then in 2006, I won the Women Grand Prix of Dinard's Young Creators.

In 2007, I created my own brand and in 2009 I opened my first boutique in the Marais. Last year, in March 2018, with my team, we started creating a flagship "88 Beaumarchais" which includes two shops and upstairs the design studio and a showroom. In the first shop you can discover my collections, the second one, Holism is a new project focused on the house and the art of living around unique handmade pieces. The "88Beaumarchais" is an opportunity to showcase my ideal cloakroom and a modern craft life style universe.

DESCRIBE YOURSELF AND YOUR DESIGN TO US?

My obsession is to create a desirable and fair wardrobe, clothes that you want to wear and associate according to your desires without suffering the obsolete diktats of a certain vision of fashion. Clothing represents identity, my work consists in elaborating pieces of different influences and pushing a certain literality to the sandstone of associations. Each woman is unique and multiple. A working overall, a flowery feminine blouse and a tailor's jacket blend together and bring the right dose of coolness, character and authenticity.

I like the "craft style" like the ultra-feminine, the opposition games, the raw materials of the workers' materials, the blur and the transparencies of the silks, to be twisted by pieces referring to the male or military cloakroom like clothes with more street or worker influences. The prints made in my creative studio balance solid, deaf or plain colours.

Each of the pieces that make up the cloakroom are created around quality materials, chosen for their natural, recycled or sustainable value, of Italian, French or English workmanship. All the collections are made in France or Europe in partner specialist workshops. My companion Arnaud, produces the shoes in the collection. I draw them and then they are made in the family workshop.

We meet each workshop with which we work and build relationships of trust and exchange of know-how. Blur makers, sleeve parts, knitwear, shoes, buttons and supplies are selected for their ethical values and the choices are made on their most durable materials. Because we are proud to work in this way and for reasons of transparency, we indicate the origin of the fabric and the country of manufacture on the product sheets of our articles on our website e-commerce.

HOW DID IT ALL BEGIN T FOR YOUR BRAND?

After my studies in geo-ethnology, I had to enter an engineering school in ecology. This training was in its infancy. Creation had been calling me since I was a child. I left everything to go to a fashion design school in Paris. At that time, I missed nature and ecological awareness was non-existent in teaching, which seemed absurd to me in view of the stakes in this sector. Once I had acquired my first experiences, I decided to launch my own cloakroom in a sustainable way 10 years ago. 10 years of learning happiness and fighting for my convictions.

WHAT IS A STAND OUT MOMENT IN SHAPING YOUR BRAND?

Each step has been important, I have taken the time to learn from my mistakes, being a designer and manager is not an easy thing. This sector requires a race for performance. Taking the time to do the right thing while respecting schedules is a real challenge. It is time to deconstruct all this, to respect the rhythm of the seasons and the non-obsolescence of the pieces. This is the logical next step and we are in the process of doing so for our great pleasure.

WHAT CREATIVE WORK HAS YOU EXCITED RIGHT NOW?

Brutalism, the work of Noma on fermentation, a culinary art, the ceramics of my friend Koen Guesquière or Jessica Barouch, the work of architect Bernard Dubois with whom we have collaborated. The works of Berndnaut Smilde as the universe of Nicolas Lefebvre....

TELL US ABOUT YOUR LATEST PROJECT…

A project recently launched is the Apartment. Thought of as a place to live and create, the apartment is my secret address. A space defined by a certain art of living where you can discover my companion's furniture, coffee table, photographs and ceramics of friends, my timeless iconic cloakroom as well as current and future collaborations. It is available on order and open to the public by appointment.

WHAT DO YOU LOVE TO DO TO RELAX?

Recharge my batteries in the middle of nature, cook local products from small producers, go to the forest, sleep under the stars, dive into the coves of my childhood...
I am inspired whenever I travel - to France, Belgium, isolated Japan, Uruguay, Patagonia and Mexico. The northern lands, Iceland... the brutal cuisine also inspires me a lot. I like to meet new artists, cooks and craftsmen. The quest for authenticity and rarity are at the heart of my research. Beyond the aesthetics, it is the history of the object and its potential utility that remains the starting point.

WHAT ADVICE DO YOU HAVE FOR EMERGING DESIGNERS?

I think it is high time that clothing makers became fully aware of the radical changes taking place in the world and in nature. We must all come together to think and implement effective short-term actions in manufacturing methods, from raw materials to store shelves. This applies to all areas and it is the end customer who will be able to make these changes with less but better consumption.

We have to get out of a certain consumption that is too "disposable". Collaborate with pretty houses whose know-how is a source of wealth and a guarantee of quality. Many people and many professions are behind the development of a part, between fabric suppliers, buttons, or closure, boss, cutter, pattern maker, grader, editor, spinner, knitter, embroiderer... we work directly with each of them, and are attentive to their needs and experience. This is undoubtedly what makes this profession fascinating when it is done like this. So, it is up to us to reinvent the system and not take the easy way out, it allows us to grow.